The Science Behind Brow Lamination & Hair Color
Brow lamination is a game-changer for creating fuller, fluffier brows, but have you ever wondered what’s actually happening to the hair during the process? Let’s break it down—how the lami solution changes the hair’s structure and why it can sometimes affect the colour of the brows.
How Brow Lamination Works
Brow hairs are made up of keratin (a type of protein), which is held together by disulfide bonds—these are the strong links that give hair its shape. When we apply lamination step 1, it works by breaking down those bonds, softening the hair, and making it flexible so we can reshape it.
Once the brows are in place, we apply a fixing solution (neutralizer) to rebuild the bonds in their new shape. This locks in the lifted effect, keeping the brows looking fuller and more uniform for weeks.
But because we’re chemically altering the hair’s structure, this process can also have an impact on colour—which brings us to melanin.
What Happens to Brow Colour?
Melanin is the natural pigment that gives hair its color, and there are two types that determine whether brows are light, dark, warm, or cool-toned:
Eumelanin – This controls black and brown tones in the hair. More eumelanin = darker brows.
Pheomelanin – This gives hair warm, golden, and red tones. The more pheomelanin, the warmer the brows will look.
When we apply lamination solution, it doesn’t just change the structure—it can also affect the colour.
The process of breaking the bonds can oxidize the melanin, which may cause brows to lighten slightly or appear warmer. This is why, after lamination, some brows can take on a subtle reddish or golden hue.
To correct this, many brow techs apply tint after lamination to bring the colour back to its original depth or tone. If the brows have gone warmer than desired, a cooler (ash-based) tint can help balance things out.
Using Aqua Drops to Correct Warmth
One of the best ways to neutralize unwanted warmth after brow lamination is by using Aqua Drops, which offers long-lasting, rich colour. In particular, Zeus is an excellent choice because it acts as a cool toner, helping to counteract any red or warm hues that may have developed during the lamination process.
By adding Zeus to your tint mix, you can restore the brows to a cooler, more natural-looking shade, avoiding any unwanted brassiness/red tones. This is especially useful for clients with naturally light brows who want to maintain an ashy tone after lamination.
Why This Matters
Understanding the science behind brow lamination helps us create the best possible results. If we know that the process can affect hair colour, we can plan ahead—whether that means adjusting tint choices or prepping clients for the possibility of slight color shifts.
Next time you’re laminating brows, just remember: you’re not just reshaping the hair—you’re also working with chemistry and color science!
Leave a comment